PLAYING TIPS
Edited from materials prepared by member John Gignilliat
DEFENSIVE BIDS OVER 1 NO TRUMP (9/27/24). Many expert players find it is better to compete against a 1NT opening rather than letting the opposition play at that level. There are around a dozen conventions that have come into the bridge game to describe various overcalls. Each partnership should have an agreement as to what defensive bidding system they use over a 1NT opening. The system referred to as DONT (Disturb Opponents No Trump)is one of the easiest to learn and remember and therefore is used by many players.
If you have one biddable suit, double. Responder bids 2 clubs. The original over-caller will pass if that is his suit and if not, will bid his suit. Responder passes with 3 or more cards in partner’s named suit or, if not holding 3 or more, bids the next highest suit and then his partner passes or corrects. In any case, if the opposition bids, neither partner is required to again bid. When considering using this system, pay attention to the vulnerability and whether you are sitting in the 2nd or 4th seat. If in the 2nd seat, you don’t know how strong either of the hands yet to bid is, so you may want to have a hand a bit stronger than if you are in the 4th seat and opener’s partner has passed, because in that case your partner is almost certain to have some support for you. In the pass out seat, use the RULE OF 2 in considering whether to overcall. If you have two distributional points (standard 3/2/1), strongly consider bidding.
If you have two biddable suits, your DON’T bid is 2 of your lowest ranking of your two suits. Pass if you have 3 card or better support, again bid the next highest suit, the original DON’T bidder will pass if that is his second suit or bid his second suit if not.
BIDDING NOTRUMP (7/17/24). The general rule of thumb is to bid notrump whenever feasible, as you need take fewer tricks and the value of the tricks is higher than any other bid at the same level. Some advice from the experts:
· Open 1 NT with five cards in a major and no void or singleton, with 15-17 HCP.
· Open 1 NT with a five or six card minor, no void or singleton, with 15-17 HCP.
· Overcall 1NT with 14-17 HCP, if you are sitting immediately behind the opening bidder.
· If you hold NT distribution but 18-19 HCP, and the opponents bid, double then bid NT.
· Usually, a responder transfers with a 5-card major following his partner’s 1NT opener. However, if you have the strength to at least invite game and you are 5-4 or 4-5 in the majors, bid 2 Gerber (2 clubs). If partner responds with a major, bid or invite game in that suit. If partner responds 2 diamonds, bid 2 or your 5-card major to invite game, or bid 3 if you have 10 or more points.
· If you are 5-5 in the majors and your partner opens 1NT, transfer and then bid the other major.
· In the balancing seat (opening bid then 2 passes) you should bid NT with 12-14 points and a stopper in their suit, unless you have a long, powerful suit of your own, especially if it is a major.
· If in the balancing suit you have a normal NT opening, double then bid NT.
· It is generally advisable to skip your 5-card diamond suit in responding to your partner’s 1-club opening and bid 1NT.
· With opening count and no five card major with a balanced hand jump your partner’s opening to 3NT.
· A big of 2NT over the opponent’s 1 bid is the Unusual Notrump convention. If you are 5-5 in the 2 lowest unbid suits, bid 2NT if you have 4-10 HCP and don’t bid again unless you have 17+points, in which case you bid 2NT and then bid again. If you have fewer points, don’t bid again.
· It is best NOT to use Unusual Notrump with 11-16 points, instead overcall with the higher ranking of your two suits.
OVERCALLS (3/29/24). NOTE: THIS BLURB IS NOT TAKEN FROM GIGNILLIAT AND THUS HE IS NOT IN ANYWAY RESPONSBILE FOR THE CONTENT). The modern bridge game is seen by most good players as rewarding aggressive bidding. Openers often have fewer HCP than in days gone by, and overcalls, what ever the level, come fast and furious (remember when you needed three of the top 5 honors in a suit to preempt)? While there is good reason for this, it is quite possible to carry it to a dangerous degree.
The reasons to preempt are several, including seeking a fit, interfering with the opponent’s auction or lead directing or even sacrificing. However, YOU SHOULD NOT OVERCALL JUST BECAUSE YOU HAVE A 5 CARD SUIT AND 7+ POINTS, because you can get in trouble. It is important to consider the strength of your suit, vulnerability, which seat you sit in, what suit you might bid (much better interference to bid 1 spade over a 1 club opening rather than 1 diamond, which accomplishes little and where the opponent’s strength in your suit is more likely to be (if your opponent has 4 of your cards including a couple of honors behind you, rather than in front of you, trouble). Remember 5-4-2-2 is a very weak hand, think twice before overcalling with 7-9 points. And to overcall at the 2 level, it is best to have double digit points and good distribution, with at least a decent suit.
The problem with overcalls is that your partner has no idea what you have. On the one level, you could have anywhere from 7 to 17 points, so the bidding proceeds somewhat in the dark. If your partner has not already passed, you may miss a game bid. If your partner has passed, you are more likely to get set. Always keep in mind that the “death contract” is one where your opponents set you 200 or more points, costing you more than them making a partial. Also remember that you rarely have anywhere to run if you get doubled that is left in for penalty, which generally means there is major trump problems behind you.
In short, overcalls are valuable and can be rewarded, but they should not be used without carefully considering the overall lay of the land.
TWO-SUITED HANDS (3/21/2024). With hands that are five/five or more, there are a number of conventions, including Unusual No-trump and Michaels, designed to show that distribution during the bidding phase. Google those conventions if you are not familiar with them. They, and other approaches, can be quite useful. Here are a few guidelines for when to use (and not use) a two-suited specialty bid.
· Do not automatically use such a bid when you are five/five.
· Don’t use such a bid if you have good defense.
· Don’t use such a bid if most of your HCP’s are in the short suits.
· Don’t use such a bid if you are vulnerable and your bid forces your partner to bid at the 3 level.
· Don’t use such a bid if your point count is 11-15.
· Partner’s response is a preference, not support.
· Remember shape often beats points.
OPENING LEADS (3/13/2024). Opening leads are perhaps the most difficult part of the bridge. A few of these pointers may help:
· It is critical to review and interpret the bidding.
· If the bidding is 1NT-3NT, leading from a major is usually best. Leading from a 4-card suit is often not best.
· Leading from a 3 card or longer sequence heading by honor is usually better than leading from 4th longest, even the bidding is 1NT-3NT.
· Even with a weak 5 card suit, if you don’t have an entry, try to lead to the suit your partner is most likely to have length or strength in, based on the bidding, if the bidding is 1NT-3NT.
· 1NT-6NT. Find the safest lead, avoid leading away from any honor.
· 1NT-6NT. If you must lead away from an honor, lead away from the cheapest one.
· Leading from a 4-card suit is risky but leading from a 5-card suit with one or more honors is often good.
· 6NT is bid. Don’t lead a singleton from an opponent’s suit that has been bid and raised.
· In a suit contract, beware leading an unguarded ace.
· In a suit contract, where you hold long trumps, it is often best NOT to lead trumps, but rather to try to force declarer to ruff. However, if you believe declarer to be basing his bid on a cross rough, you can consider a trump lead.
OPENING LIGHT (2/16/24). One consistent trend in the evolution of golf relates to the opening bid. In Goren’s time, the standard opening was with a hand holding 13-14 points. Now, almost all open with 12, some a good 11. And in third seat, many open with even less. Several suggestions for you to discuss with your partner:
· Consider the “Rule of 20” when deciding whether or not to open. This means add your points to the number of cards in your 2 longest suits. If the total is 20 or more, consider opening. Others include in the formula the need for 2 quick tricks.
· In the third seat, some are very aggressive, including opening a five-card major with 5-10 points as a weak two.
· In the fourth seat, consider using Pearson Points. If the number of spades plus the number of points equals 15 or more, bid
If you consistently open light, be sure to note on your convention card and an alert might be in order. Always consider vulnerability, have a heavier foot on the brakes if vulnerable. Finally, as with all bids, there is benefit and risk. The benefit is impeding the communication of the opposition. The risk is the lack of certainly your partner will have in what your bid means, which can get you in trouble. After all, the intent of most bids is to give accurate information to your partner.
COMMON MISTAKES TO AVOID (2/06/24). Several mistakes that many bridge players make but should avoid.
· ACE GRABBING. Aces should generally be used to capture honors. About the only time an ace could be justified as an opening lead is if it is at the top of a sequence. Against a suit contract, underleading an ace is also a bad idea. During the play of the hand, about the only time to play an ace in the second seat is a realistic fear that the declarer can run a suit or trump the next round.
· AVOIDING NO TRUMP BID. It has been said that if no trump as a bid is a possibility, bid it. This is especially true if your alternative bid is a minor. No trump is the key to winning match point contests.
· FAILING TO BAIL ON MISFIT HANDS. It is generally best to pass as soon as you determine you and your partner have a total misfit. Transportation begins very difficult and your high card points will likely be reduced in value. Finesses will not be available and you may not be able to access a long suit.
· COUNTING TRUMP. Experts count how many trumps the opposition holds as soon as the dummy comes down and then count down from there as the oppostion play trumps. It is much easier to keep tract of a number much smaller than 13, so mis-counting is much less likely.
· FAILURE TO CALL THE DIRECTOR. When the defense exposes a card, call the director. Depending on what the card is, rectification may include lead prohibitions or restrictions. Don’t just assume it is a penalty card or that it can be replaced in the hand without impact on the game.
· TALKING TOO MUCH. You must remember that what you say may be heard by other tables. You should not discuss hands during or after play, nor should you compare scores even if you and your opponents have both played a board. In additional, talking while others play can be distracting.
NO-TRUMP PLAY (1/30/24). As the declarer in a NT contract, there are a few guidelines to keep in mind.
· First, count your sure winners, so you can determine how many tricks you must develop, then
· Make a plan before playing to the first trick. This generally means prioritizing which suit(s) you might best set-up and which finesses you may or may not have to take.
· In making your plan and during play, determine if there is a “danger” hand, one that you need to keep off lead. Plan accordingly.
· Be very careful about your first play from dummy and your hand. Many contracts are lost when a good plan is scuttled because of a bad play on hand one.
· Evaluate the opening lead. Is it 4th best? Use the Rule of 11 if so. Likely top of a sequence? Not the suit the partner of the leader bid (probably means void or singleton)? Is the bid the lowest available card in a suit (likely a 4-card suit)? Did the opening leader think for some time before leading (likely no good sequence or long suit)?
DOUBLES AND THE FORCING PASS (1/26/24). If, in a game forcing bid, there is an overcall, then two passes to you (your partner passed), you must either bid or double. Your partner’s pass is a forcing pass. In a 2/1 auction, all doubles are for penalty. You cannot use support double, negative doubles, responsive doubles, etc. In deciding whether to double, support your partner’s suit if you have good support; pass if you have nothing to add, knowing your partner must bid, or double if you are strong in the overcall suit (at least two sure tricks).
In freely bid contracts, count how many winners you think you will have. It is dangerous to assume cards to be in your partner’s hand. It is not generally wise to double on your point count. Remember that declarer may have a void or singleton, eliminating tricks you think you will take. Consider whether they have a better chance of making another contract if they run. Also, be confident your double will not give away information that could allow declarant to use unorthodox play to make the contract.
Consider the “rule of 9” when considering whether to pass your partner’s conventional double. Add the total number of honor cards you hold in their suit (including 10’s) plus the total number of cards in their suit plus the level of the contract. If the total is 9 or above, seriously consider converting the double to a penalty double.
OPENING LEADS (1/15/24). The opening lead is the most difficult play in bridge. There are no absolute rules, as context requires flexibility. You always have some information, however. Every bid (including pass) by the opponents and your partner tells you something. Always consider what you know, then examine what you hold, and proceed. Some tips:
· Don’t hesitate to lead trumps because you fear you will give away your partner’s queen. That happens 2% of the time when your hand has aces and kings you don’t want to lead away from.
· Don’t hesitate to make a passive lead (like from 3 low cards) when you have honors to protect in the other suits. Make sure you and your partner know whether you are playing top of nothing, middle/up/down (MUD), or low from 3.
· Generally, don’t lead an ace (with the possible exception when it is top of a sequence or the bid is 7 or you need to have your partner holding honors in the suit to set the contract). You need to capture an honor with it.
· If the bidding and your hand tell you partner likely has a void or a singleton, consider leading that suite and, if you have a preference for the return lead, signal that by low or higher card you lead.
· Fourth highest from longest and strongest is often a good lead against NT, but only if you have entries to allow you to get the lead back if your suit sets up.
· Statistically, it is better to lead a singleton (if you have ruffing potential) than the top of a good sequence, unless it is topped by an ace.
· Against a strong opponent contract, consider taking a chance and underlead a queen. You may need partner to hold an honor to set the contract.
· Against a 6NT bid, generally make a passive bid, not 4th from longest.
· Against NT, consider the implications of a Stayman bid and response. If they have both majors, lead a minor.
· If you hold long trumps, better not to lead them. Find another lead, perhaps from your longest suit. Don’t plan on ruffs.
CUE BIDS/CONTROL BIDS (12/28/23). Cue bids generally are artificial bids, often in opponent’s suits, and are forcing. Some cue bids are as follows:
· If partner opens the bidding and right-hand opponent overcalls, a cue bid of opponent’s suit shows support and at least a limit raise.
· Western cue bid. If partner bids and you are interested in playing no-trump if opener has a full stop in the bid suit, you cue bid opponent’s suit and partner bids no-trump if he has a stopper.
· Game invitational bids. When you give a single raise of your partner’s opening major bid, a rebid of a new suit at the three level by opener is inviting game in the original suit. By partnership agreement, one can play that bid of a new suit as a help suit game try. Generally, the opener will have 3 small cards in the suit bid and is asking if his partner has help in that suit. If so, and partner has near maximum point count for his initial bid, go to game. Otherwise bid three of the original major.
· Michael’s cue bid of an opening bid shows 2 five card suits, generally the highest two unbid suits. Partners need to agree on whether the bid is a weak or strong bid. It is not advised to use it with middle strength (13-15). If you use Michael’s to cue bid a major, it shows the other major and an unspecified minor. A two no-trump response is a request to identify which minor.
· A Control Bid, is made after the trump suit is established at the three level and shows first or second round control in that suit. Such a bid is used with an above average hand with some interest in slam. It also denies a control in any suit skipped.
KIBITZING (12/16/23). Many players enjoy watching others play, often a hand the player has already played. It is ok to do, if you follow the following rules/guidelines.
· One cannot look at more than one player’s hand.
· One cannot show any reaction to the bidding or play when a deal is in progress.
· One must refrain from any mannerisms or remarks of any kind and must have no conversation with one of the players DURING A ROUND, not just after a hand is played.
· One must not disturb a player in any way, including coughing, talking to someone not playing, etc.
· One must not draw attention to any aspect of the game.
· One may speak fact or law within the playing area ONLY if requested to do so by the director.
· One should keep a reasonable distance from the player being watched.
NO TRUMP BIDDING (11/28/23). Constraints on no-trump bidding have largely evaporated over the years, as the value of bidding and making no-trump contracts generally outweighs the risks. Some guidance as to the best use of available no-trump bidding are listed.
· With 15-17 points, a five-card major and 5-3-3-2 distribution, open 1NT
· Upgrade a balanced 14-point hand to overcall a bid from your right-hand opponent and overcall 1NT.
· With a long, strong 7 card minor, raise your partner to 3NT even if you don’t have a suit stopped.
· Bypass 1 diamond if your partner opens 1 club and you don’t have a 4-card major, bid 1NT.
· With a six-card minor and no singleton, open 1NT if you have opening count.
· With 23-24 HCP and a singleton A, K or Q, open 2NT.
· With 8-9 points and a strong 6 card minor, respond by jumping to 3NT.
· With a strong 7 card minor, if partner bids after your opening, jump to 3NT.
· With 4-3-3-3 distribution, do not use Stayman with 8+ points.
· If partner opens 1 NT and you hold a 1NT opening hand, you generally will NOT have slam.
· With a combined 29-31 points, do not use Stayman.
TRADITIONAL BRIDGE SAYINGS (11/21/23). John discussed the merits of a number of old saws that bridge players often use as guidelines. Some have more merit than do others.
· Support with support. Good advice, should usually be followed. If you have three of your partners major bid, by-pass your other 4 card major.
· Bail out on a misfit. Almost always good advice, don’t try no-trump.
· Eight ever/nine never. Eight ever is very good advice, not so much nine never, odds are only very slightly in favor of playing AK first. If you have any hint that a finesse might work, best to go with it.
· Six five, come alive. A 6/5 split is very strong, ignore point count. Push the bidding if your partner has support in either suit, be super aggressive if there is dual support.
· The five level belongs to the opponents. Good advice. If you push them to five, pass.
· A card laid is a card played. For declarer, that means on the table or very close to it. For the defender, it means his partner could have seen it.
· If you think about bidding no-trump, bid it. No trump is where the points reside in match play.
· Make the safest possible lead against NT slams. Good advice, don’t take a chance on giving a trick away. Top of nothing, bottom of something.
SUIT COMBINATIONS (11/7/23).
It I important to note your opponent’s mannerisms and tempo to help determine what card to play in a finesse. It is always important to consider entries before finessing, since you may not want to finesse if you can’t repeat it. Some additional pointers:
· Be careful to hold onto a 10 rather than leading it for a finesse for the king, if you have entries, in case there is a singleton king to your left leaving the other opponent with a stopper in the suit. Take the finesse first.
· Holding a king opposite a queen, lead to one and if it wins, duck the return.
· If you hold AQ10, lead towards it and finesse for the jack first.
· If you are missing three cards including the king, finesse. If you are missing two cards including the king, it is almost a toss-up, with the odds very slightly in favor of the finesse.
· We all have heard “ever with 8, never with 9” when finessing for the queen. The former is good advice, but the latter not so good, as the odds are nearly the same either way. Make us of the “empty spaces” concepts, which is that is you have knowledge of how many unknown cards there are in the suit in both defender’s hands, finesse against the one holding the most unknowns.
· Always, if given a choice, finesse against the defender whose lead can most damage you.
· When you are missing queen and jack and on player players one of them on your ace, odds favor not playing for the other to drop, so finesse.
· If you hold AJ109, finesse twice.
· Holding 8 in a suit with the KQ10 in one hand, lead towards this holding. If the ace on your right takes the ace, finesse to the 10.
·
MORE ON RESPONSES TO OPENING 1NT BID (11/1/23).
· With a six-card major and 5-7 HCP, transfer to the major and raise to 3. This is not an invitation to NT and it is not forcing. The opener determines whether to pass or bid 4 of the major, depending on the fit and his hand.
· With a strong, long suit but little chance of slam, use a Texas transfer and pass the game response.
· When you have a 15-point NT opener and partner opens 1NT, it is unlikely you have slam. It is best to stick to NT and likely best to stick to 3NT.
· With both a six-card and a four-card major, use Stayman. It is better to have a 4-4 split than a 6-2 split. If your partner does not show 4 cards in your 4-card suit, bid the six-card suit.
· With a weak hand and a singleton club, take the risk of bidding garbage Stayman if you have two 4-card majors. It is worth the risk of partner having a bad diamond suit, if he does not bid a major. Of course, pass if he bids a major.
· To transfer and then bid a minor is a forcing bid, with a strong two-suited hand. Leave subsequent bidding to your partner who should know you have game interest.
RESPONSES TO AN OPENING 1NT BID (10/31/23). Responding to your partner’s opening 1NT bid is not as simple as one might think. Here are several pointers for consideration.
· With a balanced hand, invite with 8-9 points and bid game with 10-15 points. Opener should accept the invitation with 16-17 points.
· With a long solid or nearly solid minor suit, upgrade 9 HCP and bid game.
· Consider foregoing Stayman with sufficient points for game and a balanced hand, since you have no roughing value. Just bid 3NT.
· If you have no five-card major and less than 8 points, consider garbage Stayman, which means bid Stayman but pass your partner’s response bid.
· About the only exception to transferring when you have a 5-card major is when you are 5-4 in the majors. Bid Stayman and if your partner responses with a major, invite or go to game. If he bids diamonds, bid your 5-card suit.
· If you are 5-5 in the majors, transfer to spades and then bid hearts at the 3 level if you want to force to game. If you have 8-9 points, transfer to hearts and then bid spades at the lowest level. With less than 8 points, transfer to the best of your suits, then pass.
· With a poor hand and a long minor, use two spades as a transfer and correct when your partner bids 2 clubs if diamonds is your long suit.
SLAM BIDDING (10/25/23). There are three basic types of slam bids: fantasy, suit and no trump. Here are a few pointers regarding each.
· A fantasy slam is one which should not be bid, few actually bid it and there is no realistic chance of making it. Don’t bid slam just based on point count, analyze where the tricks are coming from or could be lost.
· NO TRUMP SLAMS. Simple addition is the key. Generally, you need a combined 33 points for a small slam and if the total reaches 37, consider a grand slam. If you are close to these numbers, consider an invite bid of 4 NT, asking your partner to pass with the minimum count he should have for any bids he has made.
· SUIT SLAMS. In considering a suit slam, you must consider HCP, distribution, ruffing value and long, runnable suits. Here are some tools useful in investigating slam.
o Ace asking bids—Gerber and various forms of Blackwood. Remember, do not count a void as an ace and be sure you are comfortable in making 5 in your agreed suit if you don’t like the answer.
o CUE BIDS. Once a suit is established, a bid of a new suit is a cue bid. It shows first round control in that suit, generally a void or singleton, (some partnerships play it to show an ace or king). With a void, it is better than using Blackwood.
o BLASTING. Jump directly to slam, often used with a void and a long, strong suit and a desire to deny the opposition a chance to use a lead directing double.
o SPLINTER BIDS. A triple jump in a new suit shows a singleton or void, at least 4 card support in the suit your partner has bid and game going values. Note that to make a splinter bid over a minor opening, one needs a very strong hand. Also, some play a jump bid after both partner have bid as a splinter.
HAND EVALUATION (10/17/23). The following are good points to remember when evaluating your hand and thus determining whether to bid and what to bid:
Ø The standard Goren point count (4-3-2-1) is a starting point, but it undervalues aces and overvalues queens and jacks.
Ø When initially valuing your hand, don’t add points for distribution for shortness, but if it becomes clear that your side, if it wins the bid, will be playing in a trump suit other than where your shortness is, then upvalue your hand, particularly voids and singletons.
Ø As a general rule of thumb, distribution is more valuable than points, particularly in suit contracts.
Ø Devalue your hand if you have doubleton or singleton honors, unsupported honors, weak long suits or a preponderance of queens and jacks.
Ø Upvalue your hand if you hold combination honors, long suits topped with honors or a preponderance of your HCP are in aces and kings.
Ø Always revalue your hand as the bidding proceeds, remembering that potential tricks are more important than HCP, especially in suit contracts.
Ø With a near no-trump opening hand with a long, good minor suit and no four-card major, consider opening 1NT.
Ø Consider opening NT with a singleton A or K, but not with any other singleton.
Ø When responding to your partner’s preempt, consider whether you are vulnerable or not, and assume if vulnerable, your partner likely has a decent preempt suit. Don’t respond based on point count or some numerical rule, rather revalue your hand and consider all the bidding to visualize what shape your partner is likely to have. If you see enough to believe you can possibly make 3NT, bid it. Bid game in your partner’s suit if you have good trump support and not enough side strength to bid NT, either to make it or to make life difficult for the other side.
OPENING LEADS (10/11/23). The following guidelines are useful when considering an opening lead against a no-trump contract:
Ø When holding AK and length in the suit, consider your entries. If you have a sure side entry, lead the A then K. If you do not, lead fourth highest.
Ø Against a NT slam, find the safest lead, usually not from a suit in which you hold an honor.
Ø If partner has bid, lead his suit unless you have a singleton in that suit and a good suit of your own.
Ø If you don’t have a good reason to do something else, lead 4th highest from your best suit.
Ø If you have suits of equal length and the opponents did not bid Stayman, usually best to lead a major instead of a minor.
Ø If you have two four card suits, one of them with the ace, lead from the other.
Ø If your suits are equal, pick the one that requires the least help from partner.
Ø If the opponents bid three suits, consider leading the unbid suit.
Ø If your hand is a bust, don’t lead from your longest, but rather try to hit your partner’s suit.
Ø If your opponents are in 1NT, consider a passive lead if you have a balanced 10-12 point hand.
HINT: After your opening lead against a NT bid, add the HCP in your hand to those in dummy, add 16, then subtract from 40 to get the approximate HCP held by your partner.
TWO-SUITED HANDS (10/3/23). Hands with 6/5 or 5/5 distribution play great, if you find a fit with partner. Here are some guidelines for bidding:
1. With suits of equal length and above minimum count, bid the higher-ranking suit then jump in the second suit.
2. With 5/6 distribution and minimal opening count, downgrade the 6-card minor and bid the major.
3. With a strong opener, reverse. Your next bid repeating your second bid should show 6/5.
4. If you open a weak two and the opponents quickly get to a major game, if you are 6/5 and not vulnerable, bid the 5-card suit if your partner can correct on the same level to your initial suit.
5. If your hand is quite strong with good hcp, don’t hesitate to open 2 clubs, even if hcp count is less than you would ordinarily open 2 clubs.
6. If you have a weak hand but partner bids one of your two suits, jump to game.
7.If partner opens 1NT and you have points to reach game or better, transfer to the higher ranked suit, then bid the lower ranked suit (twice if the opportunity presents itself.
DECLARANT PLAY AT NO TRUMP (9/25/23). No trump is the most desirable contract to bid, but the most difficult to play. A few tips to keep in mind:
1. Use the rule of 11 (assuming the defense leads 4th high) to determine distribution in the suit led.
2. Immediately count the number of certain winners you have off the top, then determine where other tricks might be created, assuming you don’t have 9 off the top.
3. As soon as possible, identify the “danger” defender. This is especially true if you have only one stopper in a suit that can then be run against you. Where you only have a king stopper, you must avoid allowing your right-hand opponent to get the lead, as an example.
4. Hold up taking a trick only when it benefits you, generally when you have a chance to eliminate the suit in a defender’s hand so it can’t be led back to the defender with length.
5. Do not hold up if a change of suit by defender can damage you.
6. Take finesses and concede tricks to the safe defender.
7. Play close attention to transportation by maintaining entries and avoiding blocking suits.
8. If you have to make assumptions, however unlikely, in order to make the contract, make that assumption.
9. It is often best to lose sure losers early in the hand, when you are still in control.
NO TRUMP BIDDING (9/18/23). Since contracts that play in no trump score more points for the same or fewer tricks, the wise player bids not trump as frequently as possible. If you have a balanced hand and 15-17 point, open 1 no trump, even if you are concerned a suit may not be stopped. Keep in mind no trump contracts are often difficult to defend and you may make the bid even with no stopper. Don’t be discouraged if you go down playing not trump, in the long term you will come out ahead.
The same goes for opening 2 no trump. If you have count and shape to open it, bid it. You are much more likely to get to game and it gives your partner tools to investigate your hand. Don’t be tempted to play a long minor suit if your partner has any support for it, as that suit will play big dividends in no trump frequently.
Finally, if your partner invites by bidding 2 no trump, don’t over think. Pass with 15 HCP and bid 3 with 16 or 17.